Japanese Pudding

Last year while on vacation in Paris, I got to visit Dreamin’ Man (140 rue Amelot, 75011, Paris), the long-awaited café from Yuichiro Sugiyama and his partner, Yui Matsuzaki. Cozy and homey with enough room for about 6 people, it’s a super tiny spot with a lot of heart.

One of our final nights before returning home to LA, Evan and I were walking back to our hotel and decided to grab some wine. We passed Dreamin’ Man and I was surprised to see the lights on and Yuichiro inside, still working. We stopped in to say hi one last time and he told us about his recent trip to New York, where he said he had some of the best coffee he’s ever tasted. I thought it was funny because I seriously consider Yuichiro’s own cappuccino one of the best I’ve ever had, which I told him. A trip to Paris without one is sad indeed (and has never happened).

Complementing the outstanding coffee is a selection of pastries from Yui. Her scones, cookies and granola all hit the spot. And then there’s the Japanese pudding (Purin). I’d seen my Parisian friends share it on Instagram, obviously: under a layer of burnt caramel is a beautiful little mound of perfectly jiggly custard, topped with more cream, and finished with a dash of crumble. It was stunning, balanced and simple, and I can’t wait to have it again. Thanks to the pandemic I don’t think we’ll be going to Paris (or anywhere) any time soon, so I’ve decided to try to make it at home to hold myself over.

This recipe will make 2 large *personal* puddings and easily scales up if you need more! My version is a little wider for a few reasons: mainly, I don’t have any small ramekins and since we’re trapped inside I can’t go get any. This wider version has some benefits, though. Thanks to more surface area the caramel is more evenly distributed over the custard, making sure every bite has some of that signature burnt flavor. It also takes a little less time to set. If you don’t have 6oz ramekins or would rather make smaller versions, feel free to split this recipe into 4 instead of 2. Just make sure it’s heatproof. It would also work split up in a muffin pan, but may be a lil tricky gettin’ ‘em out.

Recipe Notes: I like to use powdered gelatin because it’s easy to find, but if you have sheets, just use one sheet of bloomed gelatin. When you make the caramel, please be careful! It’s gonna be super hot and dangerous, so make sure you’re wearing oven mitts when you pour it. Finally, I tried rushing this and making it in less than a day (of course), but if you can afford to wait overnight you absolutely should. Otherwise, 4 to 6 hours is generally enough time to set the gelatin if your fridge is nice and cold.

Caramel:

3 tablespoons granulated sugar
1 tablespoon water
+ 1 tablespoon water, reserved

Custard:

1 egg
2 tablespoons granulated sugar
1/4 teaspoon kosher salt
1/2 teaspoon vanilla extract
3/4 cup whole milk
1/4 cup heavy cream
1 1/4 teaspoon gelatin powder
1 tablespoon water, cold

Crumble:

1 1/2 tablespoons unsalted butter, cubed
2 tablespoons all purpose flour
1 tablespoon brown sugar
Pinch salt

Whipped Cream:

1/2 cup heavy cream
1 tablespoon sour cream

1. To make the caramel: in a very small pot, add the sugar and one tablespoon of water. Make sure all of the sugar is saturated and looks like wet sand. Turn the heat on to medium and do not stir for 3 minutes. When the sugar has turned a dark amber and began to show wisps of smoke, remove from heat. Add the reserved tablespoon of water and step back — it will sizzle violently. After 30 seconds or so, whisk it together and immediately split into two 6-ounce ramekins. Swirl the ramekins to evenly coat the bottom, then set aside.

2. To make the pudding: in a medium-sized bowl, whisk together the egg, sugar, salt, and vanilla. In another small bowl, sprinkle the gelatin powder over the cold water and stir together with a fork, then set aside. Combine the milk and cream in a measuring cup and add about half of this mixture to a small pot. Bring to a simmer, then slowly whisk 1/4 cup of the hot liquid into the egg and sugar mixture. Gradually whisk in the remaining liquid, then return to heat for 1 to 2 minutes or until thickened, stirring constantly. Whisk in the bloomed gelatin, then strain the mixture back into the measuring cup with the remaining cold cream and milk. Whisk together, then pour into the 2 ramekins, on top of the caramel. Cover with plastic and refrigerate overnight.

3. To make the crumble: add all of the ingredients to a small bowl and pinch together. Bake at 350º F on a parchment-lined baking sheet for 15 to 20 minutes, or until golden brown. Allow it to cool fully, then crush it into fine crumbs and store in an airtight container.

4. To assemble: whip cream to soft peaks, then add sour cream and whip a little further, just before medium peaks appear. Remove the custards from the fridge and run a knife around the edge of the ramekin to loosen it. Invert a plate over the top and, holding the two together tightly, flip the plate and ramekin over. If you don’t hear the “plop" of the pudding, give it a few gentle shakes. Top the puddings with a scoop of whipped cream and crumble, and enjoy immediately!

Storage/Planning Ahead: If you want to make these ahead of time, the set puddings will last in the fridge for at least 3 to 5 days before being inverted, and the crumble will be just fine in an airtight container. Be sure to whip the cream fresh before serving.

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